Planking progress stalled by need to encapsulate stem

As January keeps winding on, it seems as though I’ve had a million things to juggle or deal with that keep interfering with my boatbuilding progress.

I am making progress, however.

I’ve gotten the forward starboard plank screwed into position. It is not epoxied on yet, however. The simple reason is the fact that I have not yet encapsulated the stem, which is still bare plywood all the way around. Once the planking is on, it will be very difficult to reach certain parts of the stem in order to coat it with epoxy, (or “encapsulate” it), as protection against moisture. So, I need to encapsulate the stem before I permanently attach the planking.

The forward plank on the starboard side is screwed into position.

Detail view at the stem

In this detail view, you can see the how the added chine strips got blended into the shape of the forward bend in the chine.

Unfortunately, I don’t have on-hand the proper type of epoxy for encapsulation. What I have on-hand is System Three Silvertip Gel Magic. VERY viscous stuff that is great to work with to glue parts together. However, I need something much thinner for encapsulation. I liked the Gel Magic enough that I decided I’d try another System Three product, so I ordered the regular Silvertip epoxy. It should be here early this week.

In the meantime, I have fitted, glued and screwed the butt block into position on the port side of the boat. 

Fitting the butt joint on the port side. Without the butt block in place, the forward plank does not match the curvature of the aft plank.

By comparison, here is the butt joint on the starboard side. The butt block allows the forward planking to match the curvature of the aft planking.

The port side butt block, before being epoxied into place.

The butt block epoxied into position against the aft planking on the port side.

The next step will be to encapsulate the stem & a few other parts with 2 or 3 layers of the Silvertip epoxy. Then, I can permanently attach the starboard planking. After that, the rest of the port side planking.

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Fitting the Utility’s port side planking — and a little more progress on the Zip

Having previously used the starboard side planking as a template to draw and cut the port side, fitting the port side planking was relatively quick and simple. Busy days full of other obligations have meant that I’ve had to work on the boat incrementally... 20 minutes here, 45 minutes there... but, its getting done.

Thanks to a little help from my daughter, I’m now most of the way through driving the screws to hold the planking down. The new DeWalt titanium drill bits I bought have been a real pleasure to work with, particularly since my older ones had become almost too dull to use.

Dry-fitting the forward port side planking.

February brought with it an unusual amount of snow this year. In addition to school cancellations, there were a few days when I got snowed-in at home. I took advantage of these days to draw out the construction drawings for my Zip on a big sheet of eucaboard.  I drew the frames out as they would overlap one another, based on their shared x,y axis & set-up level. This will be a great reference for checking  the frame parts for accurate shape & for assembling the frames. It is also a very useful tool for checking the relative dimensions of various aspects of the hull.

My Zip construction drawing on a big sheet of eucaboard.

Last Christmas, I received a copy of How to Fiberglass Boats, by Ken Hankinson, along with the accompanying DVD. I finished reading it recently, and I’ve enjoyed watching the DVD. It’s useful information for those, like me, with minimal experience at working with fiberglass. It takes a lot of the mystery out of the process, and its very helpful to watch someone else actually doing it. 

Additionally, the book is very enlightening about precautions to take when working with epoxy.

With any luck, Ill be able to fiberglass the Utility’s hull before summer.

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The Utility First planking panel attached

Over the weekend, I was finally able to attach the aft starboard side panel with epoxy and screws.

First, before I removed the panel from the boat’s framework, I traced the lines of the chines, sheers, and frame to the inner surface of the plywood. That way, I would have an easy visual reference for where to spread the epoxy. I also drew reference points on both the plywood and the chine to help align the panel when it was time to put it back on.

I removed the panel & set it aside, and staged all the items I’d need nearby: chip brush, extra latex gloves, awl, clamps, screwdriver, and the silicon bronze screws. I kept extra screws close at hand just in case I stripped any screw heads. This time, I put some old newspaper down on the floor to catch any drips of epoxy... right next to the earlier dried globs that I’m going to have to sand off of the concrete at some point.

Planking panel removed & waiting for epoxy.

Frame outlines made a great reference for spreading the epoxy.

Waiting for epoxy.

Some of my alignment was a bit off when I drilled into the sheer. Ill have to be more careful next time.

Same drilling alignment issue with the transom frame.

With everything ready to go, I mixed 6 oz of Silvertip Gel Magic epoxy. Gel Magic is a highly-viscous 2:1 mixture (2 parts resin to 1 part hardener). Its thickness makes it ideal for applying to vertical surfaces and for filling gaps. In this way it is very similar to Glen-L Poxy Grip.

The GelMagic components are color-coded.

Using the chip brush, I applied epoxy to both the plywood panel and the mating surfaces on the boat’s framework. At one point, I was concerned that 6 oz of epoxy would not be enough to do the job. Luckily, however, it was just about right, with a minimal amount of waste.

Wearing 2 layers of disposable latex gloves, I roughly aligned the panel with the reference marks I’d made earlier, and held it in place with one clamp. The Irwin spring clamps are great for this, as the springs in them are quite strong. Next, I used the awl to align the first holes, adjusting the clamp as necessary. I hand-threaded the first screw, then changed gloves to avoid getting too much epoxy onto my screwdriver.

After driving the first couple of screws, I clamped the rest of the panel into position. Hand-driving the screws went very smoothly. I found that using a ratcheting screwdriver with an oversized handle is just ideal for this task. I also found that I’d over-beveled some of the holes, as a few of the screw heads went slightly below the surface of the plywood. I’ll create less of a bevel next time.

With the panel fully “glued and screwed” into place, I used the putty knife to scrape away excess epoxy from the areas where I’ll need to join more wood: the chine and sheer where the forward planking panel will butt up against the aft panel; and the interior joints of the chine and sheer to the aft panel where the backing piece for the butt joint will be attached. I then used the putty knife to fill the screw holes with epoxy.

It was while using the putty knife that I realized the major component of this process that I’d forgotten: 

A rag. 

Thankfully, the laundry basket was nearby. 

There’s one less item I’ll have to wash, dry and fold. Hopefully, however, I will remember to get shop rags next time.

Alignment marks & filled screw holes along the chine.

Excess epoxy was scraped away from the chine so it wont interfere with fitting of the forward panel.

The small gap on the side of the transom is now filled.

Seam of cured epoxy against frame #1.

On the interior seams, I scraped away excess epoxy so it wont interfere with fitting of the backing block for the butt joint.

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The Utility Fitting the first planking panels

After a brief debate about whether to plank the transom first, or last, I eventually came to the conclusion that it’s a matter of individual preference. Other boatbuilders I trust kindly offered me their opinions, reasons, and techniques. I weighed all of their input before deciding on my own course of action.

I’m going to plank the sides first, and the transom second. That way, the aesthetics of the bright-finished transom should be consistent all the way out to the sides, with no end grain from the side planking visible.

Then I’m going to plank the bottom last. The reason for this basically boils down to ease of construction, regarding the transom. It seems to me that it will be easier to plank the transom while I can still access both inner and outer surfaces of it for clamping. I wouldn’t be able to do this after the bottom is planked. Since the lower edge of the transom will be underwater, then it won’t matter if the end grain is visible (whether or not it’s an aesthetic matter).

Planking
I started by cutting two 2’ x 4’ panels from a sheet of the Meranti. These will be the aft side panels. I clamped the first one into place on the starboard side. Then I roughly traced the trim line with a pencil, and removed the panel. I drew a second line 1” outside the trim line, so the panel would still be slightly oversized after I cut it. I cut it, and checked it against the port side. Since it looked good against the port side also, I used the cut piece as a template to trace out the second panel.

With both panels cut, I clamped them back into position. I’m very happy with the fitting on the starboard side. The port side still needs a little fairing, but it’s close.

Initial fitting of the aft starboard panel.

Aft starboard panel-to-transom fit. This gap will need to be filled in.

Aft starboard panel to frame #1 fit.

Aft starboard panel-to-transom inner fit.

Aft port panel-to-transom fit.

Aft port panel-to-sheer fit. This area needs a little more fairing.

Aft port panel-to-sheer fit, forward of frame #1. This area needs a little more fairing.

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The Utility Preparing for Planking

A fellow boatbuilder pointed out to me that if I cover the transom first, before planking the sides and bottom of the boat, then the end grain of my planking is going to show around the rim of the transom. (Thanks Chris!) Of course, this only poses an issue if you plan on bright-finishing your transom, which is exactly what I’m planning to do. I’m planning to paint the rest of the hull. So, paint will cover the end grain of the transom as viewed from the side.

So now, my plan has changed to planking the sides and bottom of the boat first. The first pieces of planking that go on will be short 4’ aft sections on the sides. I will be butt-joining these pieces to longer 8’ pieces that will plank the forward sections on the sides. This will allow the butt joint to be located in the flatter aft section of the boat, which means it will be easier to do, and there will be less stress on the joint. I have to join the planking in sections like this, because plywood comes in standard 8’ lengths, and my boat is 11’ long.

In preparation for planking these aft sections, I’ve been sanding away dried runs of epoxy, etc from those parts of the boat I can’t easily get to once the planking is on. I’ve also worked to clean up the shape of the seat riser cutouts in frame #1. Still, before I can plank this aft section, I need to encapsulate these frame cutouts, as well as a couple of other places I won’t be able to reach once the planking is on.

Then, God willing, I should be able to begin planking the little boat.

Dried runs of epoxy have been sanded off of frame #1 and gussets. This is the starboard side.

Starboard frame #1 after sanding. The seat riser cutouts still need to be encapsulated with epoxy.

Port frame #1 after sanding.

Port frame #1 after sanding.

Port frame #1 after sanding.

The globs of epoxy are now sanded off of the transom.

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Planking completed

 

The planking is now completed. In a manner of speaking, the structural work on the hull is basically done. However, there is a lot of work still to be done before the fiberglass goes on.

I had just barely enough epoxy left to finish the job. I used System Three Silvertip, which I thickened with #2 silica, as the last of my mahogany sawdust was gone. I was also running low on 1” silicon bronze screws. However, I did have plenty of 1-1/4” screws. So, I snipped the ends off of enough of them to finish the job, and they worked just fine.

Now its time for a lot of sanding.

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The Utility Incremental progress on the planking

It has been a week of small, incremental progress on the Utility. Even when you can only spend 15 – 30 minutes a day on the project, each little step gets you further along, and can take much of the prep work out of the next major task.

So it has been for me over the last several days. One morning, I simply measured and marked the location for driving screws through the planking and into the chine. That evening, I “connected the dots” between these marks, giving me the line along which to drill the holes. The next day, I marked points along this line, spaced 3 inches apart. I drilled holes on a few of these points, and drove a few screws. The next day, I did a few more... and so on. 

Aft starboard side panel, dry-fit & screwed on.

Once the aft starboard side panel was screwed on, I trimmed the edges down some with a block plane. Then I went back and beveled the rims of the screw holes just enough so that I can drive the screw heads down flush with the plywood surface, while still achieving good compression of all the plywood layers beneath the screw heads.

Screws spaced 3" apart; Holes beveled for flush fit & layer compression.

At this point, the aft starboard side panel is screwed and fitted into place. I will have to wait until I have more free time to remove it, apply the epoxy, and then put it back on. In the meantime, I’ve resumed the fairing for the port side panel.

And, oh yes... Don’t think I’ve forgotten the Zip. I’ve assembled its breasthook & have been sanding the sides, as time permits.

Zip breasthook assembled & being sanded.

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The Utility attaching the last of the side planking

Finally, the time came to attach the remaining 7 feet of planking to the port side. 

I prepared for this on a Saturday afternoon, removing all of the screws and setting aside the planking. That sounds simple enough, until you take in to consideration that’s roughly 80 screws, all driven (and removed) by hand. I don’t bother with the power screwdriver anymore... the silicon bronze screw heads are simply too soft. 

Planking removed, waiting for epoxy.

 

The boat framework, waiting for epoxy.

Stem & bow... drilled and ready.

Drilled holes along the upper part of the chine log.

The port side butt block, waiting for the planking.

On Sunday, I launched into the task of attaching the planking on for good. I had everything staged: Mixing cups for 2 batches of epoxy, kitchen scale, plenty of Silvertip Gel Magic on-hand, mixing sticks, chip brushes, an awl for initial alignment of screw holes, screwdriver, rag, putty knife, extra latex gloves, and of course... plenty of clamps. 

Kitchen scale, epoxy & application tools ready-to-go.

After my previous experience with having to mix a second batch of epoxy unexpectedly, this time I pre-planned to mix two batches: One for the framework, one for the plywood. This worked out nicely, with a minimum amount of waste. 

First, I removed the remainder of the forward supports for the construction form. It would be difficult to access all the screws to do this after the planking was on. If I didn’t remove it now, I wouldn’t be able to take the hull off of the form later. What an unpleasant discovery that would be. 

Next, I lightly sanded all the mating surfaces to remove the “rim” around all the holes that I drilled. I wiped the sawdust off of all the surfaces, and mixed the first batch of epoxy. After applying that to the butt block, sheer clamp, chine log, forward frame, and stem, I mixed the second batch and applied it, (globbed it on), to the plywood. Then, I clamped the plywood roughly into position and aligned the first couple of holes with the awl. I then drove a couple of screws, and satisfied with the alignment, clamped down the rest of the plywood. Then I drove the rest of the screws. 

Once that was done, I used the putty knife to scrape away excess epoxy where possible. I used some of the excess to fill screw holes & threads. 

When working with epoxy, I wear two layers of disposable latex gloves. I change the outer layer frequently to reduce mess on tools, etc. 

 The whole process went very smoothly, and took roughly two hours. 

The rest of the port side planking, finally attached.

 

Butt joint, after completion.

The port side planking — glued, screwed and clamped at the stem.

The next steps will be to fair the overhanging edges of the planking down to the chines, and to add a layer of 1/4” Meranti onto the transom. After that, a little more encapsulating work on some small inner parts. Then I can start planking the bottom.

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All the bottom planking is fitted However

All the bottom planking is finally fitted.

Two steps forward and one step back. Technically, that is still progress. That’s also the current situation with the Utility as I try to finish up the bottom planking.

In a nutshell, the panels are all fitted, but there is a little more fairing work to be done. Back in March, I mentioned in a post that there appeared to be a low spot on the port chine. With the planking on, I can see that this problem is compounded by a second one: there is also a high point on frame #1.

These two photos show the "hook," or low spot in the planking caused by a high point on frame #1 and a low spot in the chine.

So, what needs to be done now?

I’ll have to remove the panels, and sand down that high point on the frame. I’ll also have to add some more wood to the chine to build up the low area. Then the panels can go back on to re-check the fitting.

Aside from that issue, there has been other progress. I cut away part of the sole support on the transom to make room for a drain tube. I have not decided yet for certain if I will add a drain tube or not. However, if I do, part of the sole support would need to be removed. That is much more easily done before the bottom planking is attached permanently. I cut away a section 1-3/4" wide, next to the port transom knee. That should allow enough room to install a 1" drain tube. A coping saw and a couple of chisels handled the job nicely.

1-3/4" of the sole support on the transom cut away to make room for a drain tube.

 

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