Core Sound Start 6 9 13

 9 Sheets of 6mm Okoume
3 sheets of 9mm Okoume

by noon, I had all the 9mm ripped and ready for gluing the scarfs.  I use a makita Power plane to rough cut the 3" scarfs, and then a block plane, followed by a belt sander.  This took 30 minutes tops.

Next will be to move the panels to the basement workshop for gluing in the climate controlled environment!  I use WEST with one primer coat, followed by a thicken coat with Cabosil or equivalent to make a bonding putty.

I place a wide sawhorse under the joint, then cover with plastic, apply glue, then cover with plastic, and lastly     weight down with a 1X6 with any kind of weight on top.  If it slips too much, I will drive a couple of bronze nails through the set up.  May do this anyways to save time.  the goal is to be able to loft the bottom panels next weekend, and then start on the sides.

Here I am 3 hours later.

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centerboard shaping

The Centerboard has been roughed out to its approximate final shape and I have become a tad obsessive compulsive regarding the final shape.  The photo shows the NACA 0008 shape as it seemed to fit the final shape of the tip of the foil the best.  the NACA 0009 might be better.  My plan is to set a dado router bit to the depth indicated by the template and then  set a guide for the router to follow.  I will set the guides as expanded lines up the foil at several stations as the template can be expanded to fit the width at each point.  I used the plotter at http://airfoiltools.com/plotter/index  be sure to select "no margins" on the printer or things get compressed.  I can generate a NACA foil for several points along the board and then connect the points to expand the lines through the taper.  The router would then follow the lines to cut the lines to be planed to.

 Area that will be inside the trunk is clearly marked.  router will be used to go vertically up and strike marks to plane to.

 I have no idea how I will shape the tip, other than just rounding it off.

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3 9 13 centerboard

I took the plunge today and bought a few board feet of 2X6 fir to start laminating the centerboard.

After an hour on the saw including set up, I have a pile of nice strips to glue up to the basic shape.

The logic to start on this part of the boat was that the garage is still too cluttered and cold for serious building and these parts can be done with the glueing indoors and the shaping outdoors.  The centerboard trunk will be determined by the final shape of this part, so there it is.

Plywood will be ordered next week so it arrives when Im home to receive it!

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slow progress in the cold Centerboard trunk

Here is the winter update.  I finally had a couple of days off to make some progress.  I cant glue in this weather, but can fabricate parts and dry fit.  Centerboard trunk is under construction and being fitted.  will screw it all together then glue up on a warmer day.

Made a list of a pile of things that can be done in the cold or indoors.  Rudder, mizzen step, fit cross beams, and then wait for a warm day. 

Dec. 28, 2013
Not quite as cold in the garage today, and found my 5/4 dimensional mahogany at the local lumber yard that will serve as the inboard rail for the CB trunk.  I have notched the riser at the bulkhead using the multi-tool and a Japanese hand saw, and temporarily screwed it even with the seat tops with a temporary cleat aft.

notch at forward bulkhead

temporary cleat to hold in vertical space.  

Rail from above.  

Rather than ripping into a $100 sheet of marine ply, I purchased a sheet of Masonite to do a template from.  This worked quite well and the curve of the trunk matched the hull perfectly.  Next is to transfer the lines to the original sheet of ply. I will cut a little tall, just in case.  

Masonite template from above.

Homosote template a tad shy at the top,  will transfer this to the real panel.

Bottom fits the curvature perfectly.

December 29th - All parts fabricated.

Finally got all the parts for the centerboard trunk fabricated and fitted.  Will glue up on a warm day.  

But first,  a stupid idea that saves a lot of time.  I had been sharpening my pencils with a knife, rasp, or whatever i happened to have in my pocket.  It finally dawned on me several boats later that the pencil sharpener in the basement had not been used in many, many, years so I removed it and put it in the garage.  No excuses for poor lines now.  

The next time saver was to place the essential tools close at hand in the boat storage lockers. Obvious, but not at the time I needed to recognize this fact.  

Step 1 - fit the port side of the trunk, cut a little tall and long.  

The board on top is from my Michalak rowing skiff, I know it is relatively flat and spans the gap from side to side nicely.  The port panel was marked, trimmed, then planed with a block plane until level.  

Next was the king posts.  the forward post has multiple bevels, but easy to mark in three directions prior to sawing.  The fit was pretty good, but I sanded it a little to get as much in contact with the bottom as possible. Epoxy grout will hold it in place along with fiberglass tabbing.  Panels will be screwed and glued to it.  

Sheet rock screws have taken the place of the clamp for now.  

Add caption

The aft king post is now installed.  There is a compound bevel, but it is not extreme.  

Starting to look like a centerboard trunk.

Starboard panel was fitted:

• use masonite template to set curve on bottom.
• transfer to plywood
• mark from plans, note discrepancies.
• cut curve, but leave panel long and tall.  
• fit curve to boat via scribing with a pencil riding on a block of wood. 
• recut to be exact.  
• fit to boat.  

• Starboard rail is fit. It has been left long on purpose to aid in setting the top of the rails and panels level with the seats. 
• port panel is scribed to rail to be level.
• case is removed from boat for trimming, sanding, and final shaping. 
• 
  

Final photo.  Ready to fiberglass the inside of the board and cut the slot.

The seat is actually in the correct approximate location and it is level!

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March 9th update rudder assembly and Centerboard shaping

It has been a very long and cold winter in New England.  Working outdoors to do planing, shaping, and fairing of the blades has been impossible due to the weather and family/work schedule.  I have put in for retirement, so time to work on the boat is not far away.  The weekly 60 hour work week gets in the way of these important things.

today - assembled the rudder head stock, and fitted the shaped blade.  Nothing fancy on the shaping,  I simply planed and sanded a reasonable shape to the flat stock so that the thickest sections were about 1/3 back.  Will coat with epoxy and paint when the days get longer and warmer.

Builders of a CS 17 should note that the leading edge of the rudder protrudes slightly forward of the head stock.  When the pintles are added, it will be in line with the pivot point.  

yup, Its snug, but wont take much to loosen up.  A little sanding and then prime and paint.  

Centerboard shaping - 

From the blank, I attached a NACA 0006 series template to the end of the tip and drew a line around the tip.  Then I set up the router to rout grooves to the depth indicated on the template up and down each side.  

template is sitting on the blade, was attached to the tip.  radial lines kept to the ratio were then scribed on the blade and a guide for the router set up. 

Not bad for a first attempt.  A few low spots and some high spots still, but fixable.  the router and electric plane made short work of this.  Then followed up with the wood eraser (7" disc grinder), and palm sander.  

Leading edge needs some attention, and I still need to shape the tip.  Not quite sure what I am going to do here.  Just a simple rounding over?  When the board is raised partially, this will also be a quasi trailing edge.  

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