I finally put the bulkheads in permanently today.
Tampilkan postingan dengan label keel. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label keel. Tampilkan semua postingan
Senin, 28 November 2016
Jumat, 16 September 2016
The Utility part 2 The Keel
The Utilitys keel is made from a 1" x 3" x 8 board, laminated on the inner surface with an additional 1/4" x 3" x 8 plywood backing piece. Optionally, the builder can substitute a 1-1/4" thick solid board. I chose the standard laminating method.
This is where I ran into a little trouble.
Firstly, I had cut the frame notches as precisely as possible, as-drawn on the plans. For the keel notch, it was 1-1/4" deep.
Secondly, the "1-inch" mahogany board Id bought for the keel was in fact only 3/4" thick. (I touched on this in my last post.) So, after laminating on the 1/4" plywood keel backing, the keel was at this point only 1" thick overall.
I briefly considered scrapping the keel and buying a full 1-inch mahogany board to re-build it. The problem there is that mahogany is quite expensive. Also, as youll read in other boatbuilding blogs (and certainly this one), problems arise. Its a given. If you re-start every time a problem arises, it will take you forever to get the boat built. What Ive found is that boat construction, particularly for the first-time builder, involves a lot of troubleshooting. Frankly, thats part of the fun. At least, I think so.
I decided to simply add a second lamination of plywood in order to make up the needed thickness to match the 1-1/4" notch. I did still have some left-over 1/4" marine plywood, but not enough to cut a full 8 length. So, I decided to try my hand at a scarf joint.
Instructions for making scarf joints were included in the plans. Basically, to scarf two sections of 1/4" material, you bevel the ends of each piece along a 3" span. Then, you flip one piece over, fit one diagonal bevel over the other, and glue the two together with epoxy. Creating the bevel is probably best done with a plane, but I didnt have one at the time. So, I used a small Black and Decker sander.
I glued the scarf joint together and added the second keel backing with Poxy-Shield thickened with #2 Silica. The end result wasnt exactly pretty, but it was functional and felt very solid along the full length of the keel.
As with the Squirt, the Utilitys transom is raked backward at a 12 degree angle. Notches in the transom frame members must be cut before fastening all the transom parts together. This is because the keel and floor battens do not pass through the transom. Instead, they butt up against the transom. Ideally, the transom frame notches should be cut in such a way so as to match the fitted angle of the transom.
I did not do this. Instead, I simply made perpendicular cuts into the transom frame members. As a result, when the assembled transom was fitted to the construction form, my notches turned "downward" 12 degrees. This meant that for proper fitting, I would need to bevel the ends of the keel and floor battens. I did this using a circular mitre saw cutting on a bias, in addition to using a rasp, file and sander.
In the end, it worked out fine. However, Id recommend cutting the frame notches at an angle if possible. I believe the final joint would be stronger.
Read More..
This is where I ran into a little trouble.
Firstly, I had cut the frame notches as precisely as possible, as-drawn on the plans. For the keel notch, it was 1-1/4" deep.
Secondly, the "1-inch" mahogany board Id bought for the keel was in fact only 3/4" thick. (I touched on this in my last post.) So, after laminating on the 1/4" plywood keel backing, the keel was at this point only 1" thick overall.
I briefly considered scrapping the keel and buying a full 1-inch mahogany board to re-build it. The problem there is that mahogany is quite expensive. Also, as youll read in other boatbuilding blogs (and certainly this one), problems arise. Its a given. If you re-start every time a problem arises, it will take you forever to get the boat built. What Ive found is that boat construction, particularly for the first-time builder, involves a lot of troubleshooting. Frankly, thats part of the fun. At least, I think so.
I decided to simply add a second lamination of plywood in order to make up the needed thickness to match the 1-1/4" notch. I did still have some left-over 1/4" marine plywood, but not enough to cut a full 8 length. So, I decided to try my hand at a scarf joint.
Instructions for making scarf joints were included in the plans. Basically, to scarf two sections of 1/4" material, you bevel the ends of each piece along a 3" span. Then, you flip one piece over, fit one diagonal bevel over the other, and glue the two together with epoxy. Creating the bevel is probably best done with a plane, but I didnt have one at the time. So, I used a small Black and Decker sander.
 |
| Scarf joint before being glued. |
 |
| Scarf joint after gluing. |
I glued the scarf joint together and added the second keel backing with Poxy-Shield thickened with #2 Silica. The end result wasnt exactly pretty, but it was functional and felt very solid along the full length of the keel.
As with the Squirt, the Utilitys transom is raked backward at a 12 degree angle. Notches in the transom frame members must be cut before fastening all the transom parts together. This is because the keel and floor battens do not pass through the transom. Instead, they butt up against the transom. Ideally, the transom frame notches should be cut in such a way so as to match the fitted angle of the transom.
I did not do this. Instead, I simply made perpendicular cuts into the transom frame members. As a result, when the assembled transom was fitted to the construction form, my notches turned "downward" 12 degrees. This meant that for proper fitting, I would need to bevel the ends of the keel and floor battens. I did this using a circular mitre saw cutting on a bias, in addition to using a rasp, file and sander.
In the end, it worked out fine. However, Id recommend cutting the frame notches at an angle if possible. I believe the final joint would be stronger.
 |
| Aft end of keel after beveling. |
 |
| Beveled keel fit into its transom frame notch. |
Kamis, 04 Agustus 2016
Keel batten
I have decided to break with tradition at this point, not wanting to have to turn the hull over four times.
I am going to install the bulk of the interior prior to flipping as many other builders have done. This means i will put the keel batten, seats, CB trunk in place first.
Step one was to remove the aft bulkhead that was mistakenly installed. this took 5 minutes with the multi tool. It cuts through epoxy and glass like butter and is easy to control in a tight space.
Step two was to make the hole in the temporary center bulkhead large enough to get the batten through. I know I could probably take it out at this point, but it really keeps things rigid.
Step three - cut rough batten to length.
next will be to cut an approximation of the bottom angles onto the batten with a plane. Will rough out with the electric, then smooth out with the block plane and sandpaper.
August 31 update -
Took the batten stock to the sawhorses and roughed out the cut with the block plane at the stern and the power plane at the bow. It actually fits pretty good! This will help minimize how much goop needs to be mixed up to fit the batten.
I did make a HUGE, DANGEROUS, and EXPENSIVE mistake when fitting the batten to the hull. I have been using chunks of lead, marine batteries, and other assorted heavy objects to make the batten lie flat to the hull. Then I drilled pilot holes from above, then a smaller pilot hole from below the boat so that the batten would be held firmly and not need extra weight on top while the goop hardened. I know how easy it is to split fir, so the pilot holes are essential. During this process while drilling from beneath and into the batten, I accidentally drilled a small pilot hole INTO THE MARINE BATTERY. My first thought was, "damned, where is this water coming from." Then the obvious came to mind! I boogied to get the battery out of the boat, and onto the cement floor, and eventually back into its battery box, where it could drain safely. Then, after a short clean up of the puddles with gloves on, I wiped all surfaces down with a baking soda paste and rinsed thoroughly. Battery acid will eat through just about anything metal, cloth, or wood. I sure hope I neutralized the acid. A quick note: when cleaning the acid, it noticeably bubbles when the baking soda contacts it. Wear long sleeves, eye protection, and rubber gloves.
Will never use a Marine battery for anything other than its intended purpose again. I hope at least one builder has their skin, eyes, or boat saved by reading this posting. I admit it was stupid and short sighted.
I will be putting a first aid kit on the wall in the garage, right next to the shelf for eye protection, hearing protectors, and gloves.
Hope to have this part done by Labor Day. (putting a deadline on anything wont help. oops)
September 2, 2013
I finished putting in the batten today with the help of two volunteers! Phil and Kenny came over to see what was transpiring and we got to work. Phil mixed batches of epoxy and handed them to me in the boat while Kenny looked for gaps, drips, and spills. It took about an hour to get the batten bedded down and held in place by the sheet rock screws (I used longer ones on purpose to ensure they are really in place. Additionally, if they refuse to budge, I can heat up the end and it will melt the surrounding epoxy for extraction. At least, thats the theory. It was nice to see the epoxy oozing out the sides and the batten was pressed into place. Phil screwed the sheet rock screws in, while I stood on the batten to hold it flush with the bottom. I hope to remember to pull the screws out tomorrow afternoon, as it gets more difficult as time goes on.
Kenny is thinking of building a CS 17, so he wanted to see the boat and plans close up. I hope this was helpful. At least we got another hand involved, will reimburse with beer when the time comes.
No updates for a couple of weeks as spare time is limited, but it will involve putting in the stern bulkhead, and deck framing structures. Seats and centerboard case to come as well.
September 3, 2013
Was able to successfully extract all the sheet rock screws. going with the longer screw worked better as the helix is not a tightly wound on the make I used. I did discover that I over filled the area that the centerboard trunk will abut and will need to chip out some epoxy from the batten with the multi-tool.
Read More..
I am going to install the bulk of the interior prior to flipping as many other builders have done. This means i will put the keel batten, seats, CB trunk in place first.
Step one was to remove the aft bulkhead that was mistakenly installed. this took 5 minutes with the multi tool. It cuts through epoxy and glass like butter and is easy to control in a tight space.
Step two was to make the hole in the temporary center bulkhead large enough to get the batten through. I know I could probably take it out at this point, but it really keeps things rigid.
Step three - cut rough batten to length.
next will be to cut an approximation of the bottom angles onto the batten with a plane. Will rough out with the electric, then smooth out with the block plane and sandpaper.
August 31 update -
Took the batten stock to the sawhorses and roughed out the cut with the block plane at the stern and the power plane at the bow. It actually fits pretty good! This will help minimize how much goop needs to be mixed up to fit the batten.
the batten is anchored at the stern, and supported near that bow so that epoxy grout can be laid for 2/3rds of the length.
Hole in the temporary bulkhead allows enough clearance for gluing.
Two heavy bags help to weight down the stern part.
I did make a HUGE, DANGEROUS, and EXPENSIVE mistake when fitting the batten to the hull. I have been using chunks of lead, marine batteries, and other assorted heavy objects to make the batten lie flat to the hull. Then I drilled pilot holes from above, then a smaller pilot hole from below the boat so that the batten would be held firmly and not need extra weight on top while the goop hardened. I know how easy it is to split fir, so the pilot holes are essential. During this process while drilling from beneath and into the batten, I accidentally drilled a small pilot hole INTO THE MARINE BATTERY. My first thought was, "damned, where is this water coming from." Then the obvious came to mind! I boogied to get the battery out of the boat, and onto the cement floor, and eventually back into its battery box, where it could drain safely. Then, after a short clean up of the puddles with gloves on, I wiped all surfaces down with a baking soda paste and rinsed thoroughly. Battery acid will eat through just about anything metal, cloth, or wood. I sure hope I neutralized the acid. A quick note: when cleaning the acid, it noticeably bubbles when the baking soda contacts it. Wear long sleeves, eye protection, and rubber gloves.
Will never use a Marine battery for anything other than its intended purpose again. I hope at least one builder has their skin, eyes, or boat saved by reading this posting. I admit it was stupid and short sighted.
I will be putting a first aid kit on the wall in the garage, right next to the shelf for eye protection, hearing protectors, and gloves.
Hope to have this part done by Labor Day. (putting a deadline on anything wont help. oops)
September 2, 2013
I finished putting in the batten today with the help of two volunteers! Phil and Kenny came over to see what was transpiring and we got to work. Phil mixed batches of epoxy and handed them to me in the boat while Kenny looked for gaps, drips, and spills. It took about an hour to get the batten bedded down and held in place by the sheet rock screws (I used longer ones on purpose to ensure they are really in place. Additionally, if they refuse to budge, I can heat up the end and it will melt the surrounding epoxy for extraction. At least, thats the theory. It was nice to see the epoxy oozing out the sides and the batten was pressed into place. Phil screwed the sheet rock screws in, while I stood on the batten to hold it flush with the bottom. I hope to remember to pull the screws out tomorrow afternoon, as it gets more difficult as time goes on.
Kenny is thinking of building a CS 17, so he wanted to see the boat and plans close up. I hope this was helpful. At least we got another hand involved, will reimburse with beer when the time comes.
No updates for a couple of weeks as spare time is limited, but it will involve putting in the stern bulkhead, and deck framing structures. Seats and centerboard case to come as well.
September 3, 2013
Was able to successfully extract all the sheet rock screws. going with the longer screw worked better as the helix is not a tightly wound on the make I used. I did discover that I over filled the area that the centerboard trunk will abut and will need to chip out some epoxy from the batten with the multi-tool.
Minggu, 20 Maret 2016
Keel
August 28, 2014
Being tired of sanding, I switched gears to the keel. The idea is to start with a lot of wood and wind up with a little less. The keel on this boat is designed to take the weight of the boat on and off the trailer, proved something to hit a beach with, and add a little more stiffness to the hull. (additionally, it will help track the boat with the centerboard retracted).
The plans have some conflicting information. On the instruction sheets, the keel is described as being 3/4" and on the plans it measure 1"x1". I went with this as I can always make it smaller, but not bigger if needed.
It took a few times of reading through the description of how to scribe the keel until I saw it clearly as to what should happen. Basically, take a 1X2 plank (in my case, mahogany), and scribe a line down the middle. Then place the 14 foot plank edgewise on the hull, with a helper holding it down against a block the same thickness as the keel. Now, take another block of similar dimension and scribe a line along the board from the stern until it meets the other lines that mark the forward part of the plank. I wish I took a photo, but the plans describe it well enough. You are left with a plank that is 2" wide at the stern and tapers to 1" about 4-6 forward of that. When it is all cut out, the plank will lie relatively flat against the hull, while the last 6 of the keel are straight. The forward part will need to be shaped for better hydrodynamics as a blunt block is not too terribly efficient as shape.
Then, you need to cut a groove into the entire thing so that it fits flush against the hull. All this will be held in place with screws and goop. A final step is to fair it into the hull with fairing compound and then add a stainless rub strip to the bottom and chine edges. These are to be sacrificial in nature. Cutting the groove is a chore and I am sure there are power tools that could do it. My method was to cut a 1/4" X 1/4" deep groove from stem to stern along the keel bottom with a chisel, This is followed up with a 3/8" chisel to enlarge it. Next, I knock down the sides of the V with a sharpened block plane. Everything is then shaped up with the 3/4" chisel to make the V consistent. This took two hours. One hour was spent figuring out this method. The other hour of actual consistent work.
Read More..
Being tired of sanding, I switched gears to the keel. The idea is to start with a lot of wood and wind up with a little less. The keel on this boat is designed to take the weight of the boat on and off the trailer, proved something to hit a beach with, and add a little more stiffness to the hull. (additionally, it will help track the boat with the centerboard retracted).
The plans have some conflicting information. On the instruction sheets, the keel is described as being 3/4" and on the plans it measure 1"x1". I went with this as I can always make it smaller, but not bigger if needed.
It took a few times of reading through the description of how to scribe the keel until I saw it clearly as to what should happen. Basically, take a 1X2 plank (in my case, mahogany), and scribe a line down the middle. Then place the 14 foot plank edgewise on the hull, with a helper holding it down against a block the same thickness as the keel. Now, take another block of similar dimension and scribe a line along the board from the stern until it meets the other lines that mark the forward part of the plank. I wish I took a photo, but the plans describe it well enough. You are left with a plank that is 2" wide at the stern and tapers to 1" about 4-6 forward of that. When it is all cut out, the plank will lie relatively flat against the hull, while the last 6 of the keel are straight. The forward part will need to be shaped for better hydrodynamics as a blunt block is not too terribly efficient as shape.
Then, you need to cut a groove into the entire thing so that it fits flush against the hull. All this will be held in place with screws and goop. A final step is to fair it into the hull with fairing compound and then add a stainless rub strip to the bottom and chine edges. These are to be sacrificial in nature. Cutting the groove is a chore and I am sure there are power tools that could do it. My method was to cut a 1/4" X 1/4" deep groove from stem to stern along the keel bottom with a chisel, This is followed up with a 3/8" chisel to enlarge it. Next, I knock down the sides of the V with a sharpened block plane. Everything is then shaped up with the 3/4" chisel to make the V consistent. This took two hours. One hour was spent figuring out this method. The other hour of actual consistent work.
 |
| V groove from stern to stem. |
 |
| Tools used to cut the V groove |
 |
| Keel set temporarily in place to see how it fits. Like a glove is the answer! |
The sad news is tomorrow it is back to more sanding and filling until the boat is paint ready.
Update - 9-4-14
We finally have the keel in place. After working upside down from the inside while my daughter aligned the keel on the outside, we got all the temporary screws in place to prep for the application of the epoxy filler and glue. It was at this time, my daughter asked a poignant question, "Why dont we put the boat on its side for this, it would be way easier, yes?" So we rolled it off the cradle on onto its side. And yes, it is way easier. photos below.
 |
| Boat is rolled out the garage yet one more time. Keel is temporarily held in place with drywall screws. |
  |
| Keel has been shaped to final profile and aligned with a sharpie marker marking both sides. |
 |
| Screws are sticking pround of the forward part where the keel tapers, holes and front get blended into hull so this will not be an issue. No one will see it when the paint drys. |
 |
| We move the boat off the cradle by moving the bow off the cradle so that one side is still in contact with the cradle, and then the stern. An easy tip to vertical from there. The boat is supported by two stout sawhorses. |
 |
| These sawhorses do the trick! |
 |
| Katie applies epoxy grout to the V groove. I am the mixer in the garage, making more batches of grout. |
 |
| After the grout has been applied, I work the electric drill from this side, while Katie ensures the keel is aligned with our sharpie marks. |
 |
| This is the finished product, We will let it set overnight and then i will remove the drywall screws. |
Sept 5, 2014
We tilted the boat back on its side (son helped on his way to work), and I removed the screws. Then, replaced the boat on the form and did some clean up and final shaping of ends. It came out nice. Paint is ordered. Next, is the CB gasket (not on the plans).
Rabu, 09 Maret 2016
Fairing and keel
August 15th, 2014
I am finally closing in on the final stages of hull finish prep. The third coat of epoxy just about filled the weave, and then the boat gets a quick sanding (three hours) to remove the globs, and just a fraction of the remaining bumps from the glass. Next, a fill with fairing compound, hand sand with the long board, then fill and fair until I get sick of it. The keel will be installed afterwards as well as the centerboard gasket, then primer on the hull prior to turning. The goal is to get the boat back upright and the majority of the interior finished prior to the weather window closing in at the end of October.
August 21, 2014
Read More..
I am finally closing in on the final stages of hull finish prep. The third coat of epoxy just about filled the weave, and then the boat gets a quick sanding (three hours) to remove the globs, and just a fraction of the remaining bumps from the glass. Next, a fill with fairing compound, hand sand with the long board, then fill and fair until I get sick of it. The keel will be installed afterwards as well as the centerboard gasket, then primer on the hull prior to turning. The goal is to get the boat back upright and the majority of the interior finished prior to the weather window closing in at the end of October.
 |
| 6 oz glass set in 3 coats of epoxy that have been squeegeed on. |
got the first coat of fairing compound (WEST 407) on it today. It takes about three hours to apply a thin coat all around. Shame is, I gotta sand most of it off to find the low spots. Sundays project. Hopefully painting by Labor Day.
August 26, 2014
8 hours of sanding later...I would highly recommend a thicker coating of fairing compound. Too late now. Just order more microballoon filler. Arms hurt, ears, hurt, much sandpaper, Sanding sucks. Oh...the bottom is ready for primer and the keel.
Sides tomorrow.
8 hours of sanding later...I would highly recommend a thicker coating of fairing compound. Too late now. Just order more microballoon filler. Arms hurt, ears, hurt, much sandpaper, Sanding sucks. Oh...the bottom is ready for primer and the keel.
Sides tomorrow.
